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Having a Home Comfort Problem? Checkout the FAQs below for commonly asked questions.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Comfort Questions

Q: My home comfort system is not working, is there anything I can do?
A:

Here are some simple steps you can take before scheduling a service call:

Check disconnect switches (indoor and outdoor if you have a split system). Make sure that circuit breakers are ON or that fuses have not blown.
Check for sufficient airflow. Make sure air filters are clean and that supply-air and return-air grilles are open and unobstructed.
Check the settings on your thermostat. If you want cooling, make sure the temperature control selector is set below room temperature and the SYSTEM switch is on the COOL or AUTO position. If you want heat, make sure the temperature control selector is set above room temperature and the SYSTEM switch is at HEAT or AUTO. The FAN switch should be set at ON for continuous blower operation or AUTO if you want the blower to function only while the unit is operating.

If these procedures do not work, you can contact us and a 5-Star Technician will be able to solve the problem!

Q: Can I just replace the heat pump on an older system to save money?
A:

No. Replacing only the outdoor unit will sacrifice your comfort and lower the efficiency of the unit. In fact, you can lose up to 15% of the unit's efficiency! Even worse, your system may fail sooner than normal and most manufacturers' warranties will be voided. You should seriously consider buying a complete heat pump system.

Q: What is the average life of a system?
A:

Most systems have a lifetime of 12 years or less. As your equipment gets older, its efficiency can decrease dramatically. You may notice that it gets noisier and needs repairs more often. If your system is over five years old, you should have a heating and cooling contractor check your system for maintenance or replacement.

Q: Should I repair or replace my system?
A:

There are five main questions that need to be considered when deciding to either replace or repair your heating and cooling system:

How old is your system? If your system is more than ten years old, it may be wiser to invest in new, higher efficiency equipment, which could cut your energy costs by up to 40%.

What is the efficiency level of your current indoor weather system? Unfortunately, replacing parts of your old system will not improve the efficiency. If the energy savings of using a higher efficiency system will cover all or part of the cost of investing in new equipment, you should seriously consider replacement of the old system.

What is the overall condition of your system? If your system is in solid condition, it could be wiser to simply repair it. But if your system breaks down often, you should consider replacing it.

How often is your system operating? If your system has been used extensively, it may be time to replace it.

Are you planning to move soon? If you are moving in the next year or two and believe investing in a new indoor weather system will improve the value of your home, you should consider making the investment. If you plan to live in your current residence for many more years, it may also be wise to go ahead and invest in your future comfort.

For more information, please contact the branch closest to you or fill out one of these request forms to schedule a Sales Call or Service Call.

Q: How can I lower my energy bills in the winter?
A:

Here are a few simple tips for lowering your energy bills during the winter months:

Limit the loss of expensive heated air to the outside. Use kitchen, bath, and other ventilating fans sparingly.
Keep fireplace dampers tightly closed until you prepare to light a fire.
When using your fireplace, limit the amount of heated air drawn from the rest of the house. Open dampers in the bottom of the firebox if provided, or open the closest window about 1 inch and close any doors leading into the room.
Draft-proof windows, doors, and other air leaks. Caulking and weather stripping are reasonably easy, so you may be able to save money by doing the job yourself.
Lower your thermostat to about 65 degrees F during the day and 60 degrees F at night. For each degree you turn down your thermostat, you'll save about 3 percent on your heating bills. Consider the comfort and convenience of an automatic clock thermostat to do this for you.
Avoid heating unused areas by closing off unoccupied rooms and shutting off heating vents. Note: this does not apply if you have a heat pump system. Leave it alone, as shutting vents could harm a heat pump.
Keep your heating equipment operating efficiently. Clean or replace the filter in your forced air heating system each month, and check the duct work that is readily accessible for air leaks about once a year. Be sure that heating ducts in unheated areas are insulated. Keep the heating system well tuned with periodic maintenance by a professional service.
Insulate your attic floor or top floor ceiling to reduce winter heat loss.
Consider installing storm windows and doors.
If you have an attached garage, keep your garage door closed. This will prevent cold winds from infiltrating the connecting door and other areas between the house and garage.
If you're ready to make your home more efficient, contact us and ask about our energy audit program to identify areas where homes waste energy and money.

Q: Condensation from our AC Unit is backing up in our laundry room. What do we need to do to solve the problem?
A:

Most likely the condensate drain line is clogged or the indoor coil is iced up. The system should be thoroughly checked by a certified technician to make sure the drain and coils are clean and the refrigerant charge is correct.

Q: Why would my AC unit be pumping out warm air when my unit is set to "cool" and on "Auto". The thermostat is at 74, the room temp is reading 80 and still pumping out warm air.. I'm confused!
A:

If the air coming out of the vents is “room temperature” it could be something as simple as the outdoor unit is not running due to a tripped breaker, blown fuse or a simple electrical problem.

If the air is actually warmer than the room temperature it is something more severe, the system should be shut down immediately. In either case the system should be checked by a certified technician to find the cause of the symptoms.

Q: My 4-story house has returns to the air handler on the top and bottom floors. Which return should I close for summer months to improve upstairs cooling?
A:

You should not close any of the returns. You could try closing some of the bottom floor supply registers halfway and see if that helps any. If this doesn't help, we would recommend a Whole House Comfort check-up be performed by our BPI certified consultant to check the air flow of the house.

Q: I have heard that setting the air handler fan from "auto" to "on" can help cooling on upper floors of townhouses because it keeps the cooler air from lower levels circulating through the house even when the outdoor unit isn't running. Is this something you recommend?
A:

Yes, this is something we would recommend. The cost of this is minimal compared to the extra comfort and health you will benefit from.